Know that cup size is not absolute. This is the biggest myth about bra sizes: that a D cup looks the same on every band size, or that having small breasts automatically means you're an A cup. Actually, cup size is proportional to band size — meaning it's dependent on your band measurement. For instance, a 32 D will fill out less volume than a 36 D, but they're both D cups.
Avoid stores that carry a limited range. A fitter at one of these shops might try to incorrectly sell you a size that they have on-hand, instead of your true size. Before you commit to a fitting, make sure the store carries smaller band sizes (such as 28 and 30) and larger cups (DDD and up). Good choices in the US include department stores like Nordstrom and Dillard's.
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Here are a few telltale signs that you may not be wearing the right bra size: wrinkling in the cups, underwire poking the sides of your breasts, a band that rides up, cup spillage, slipping straps, or a bra that hikes up when you lift your arms, says Sandi Simon, a fit consultant at Bra Smyth, in New York City. (Keep in mind that certain factors can cause you to change bra size, a weight gain or loss, a new exercise regimen, pregnancy, and a change of diet, among them.) If you suffer from any of the fit issues above, head to a professional bra fitter—or bust out the measuring tape and follow the steps here.